richly diverse human culture. Luanda is a capital of contrasts, offering everything from colonial Portuguese ruins to $100-a-plate sushi bars, a vibrant carnival to sophisticated nightclubs, and landscaped waterfronts to grand public buildings. Venture beyond the urban bustle, perhaps on the recently rehabilitated Benguela railway, and you can discover attractions ranging from frontier diamond towns to relaxed beach resorts, excellent sea-fishing to some of the world's most enthralling surfing (at Cabo Ledo).