shelves of the newsagents, or the calculated cool clothing sported by young Stockholmers, to realise that this place is at the forefront of design - from chic boutiques to cutting-edge hotels. But it is also a city of substance, with over 100 galleries and 70 museums - impressive stats for a population roughly one-seventh the size of London. And for a break from all that Nordic chic, there are thousands of pine-covered islands a ferry ride away for a thoroughly laid-back getaway. Sightseeing, restaurants, bars, shops and Stockholm maps.